Carmenere
Incognito emigrant
The Carmenère had to emigrate to become famous. Once, it belonged to the main red varieties in Bordeaux. But it was not particularly loved by vintners there. It matured poorly, yielded little return and often turned out harsh and herbaceous. For this reason, it was replaced after the phylloxera epidemic by more low-maintenance varieties. Meanwhile, it found its way to Chile. In the warm climate of South America, the wines suddenly presented deep blackberry fruit, chocolate notes and velvety tannins. These were joined by a fine eucalyptus note, which became its trademark. The catch: for a long time, no-one knew that this had to be done with Carmenère. Instead, wine growers kept their vine stocks for Merlot. Since the error became apparent in 1997, this variety has experienced a phenomenal upturn. In Bordeaux as well, some châteaux are incorporating a dash of Carmenère in their grand crus.